Sri Lanka - Galle & Stilt Fishermen
I almost turned around.
Not because the road was bad.
Because I wasn't entirely convinced it was a road.
My oversized SUV crawled along a narrow path between rice paddies in southern Sri Lanka. On one side, muddy fields stretched to the horizon. On the other, villagers walked so close I was certain my mirrors were brushing their shoulders.
I gripped the steering wheel.
"Am I still on the road?"
A quick glance at the mirror.
"Yep."
Ten seconds later.
"Am I still on the road?"
Another glance.
Still there.
This wasn't exactly how I pictured crossing off one of my biggest bucket-list adventures.
But then again, the best travel stories never begin with comfort.
They begin with a little uncertainty and a lot of curiosity.
And somewhere ahead, I hoped, was one of Sri Lanka's most iconic sights—the legendary stilt fishermen.
But first, there was Galle.
Galle wasn't originally the reason I came south.
It was simply a stop along the route.
That lasted much longer than planned.
Walking through Galle Fort felt like stepping into a living postcard.
One minute I was dodging tuk-tuks and Colombo traffic. The next I was wandering cobblestone streets lined with Dutch colonial buildings, spice merchants, artists, cafés and ocean views that seemed frozen in time.
As someone who spends her life talking about spices, I was fascinated to learn that Galle was once an important stop along the ancient spice trade routes.
Galle was heavily damaged in 2004 by a tsunami but thanks to being a UNESCO site, they have restored the old fort.
Walking cobblestone streets at times felt as if I was in a time capsule. You can see the Dutch influence from the 16th century. Many of the old buildings now house upscale bars and restaurants. A perfect example is the Dutch Hospital. Sri Lanka’s share their love of the arts here.
I had only plans to spend an hour here but was enticed to pop into multiple shops to see the local artists at work.
My first purchase of this trip was a metal elephant. I could not resist. This art piece is much like this country, simple yet resourceful. Plus, I love supporting local artists.
This metal piece will make the journey home, can pack flat and take little room. Score!
We soon find ourselves staring at a man playing music to wicker baskets. He lifts the lids and fans it to taunt 2 cobras to rise and flare their neck. How amazing. FROM A DISTANCE!
He invited us closer.
We declined.
Very enthusiastically.
Galle – Checked off bucket list.
Now to get back to the job at task. FIND my #1 bucket list item.
We leave Galle and head toward Midigama.
Stilt Fishermen of Sri Lanka
I took a turn off the express highway and I soon find that my huge vehicle was wider than the road. Google Maps said 35 minutes.
My nerves said three hours.
The road became narrower.
Then narrower again.
Then I began questioning the definition of "road."
I have large mirrors by windows but also small ones at the front sides of my motor hood. I used these all the time to watch my tires as I slowly traveled rice paddy roads to the coast.
Am I on the road still? (look) Am I still on the road? (look) Oh the stress! I travelled down a very small rice paddy road. It is very interesting to stop and watch them work in the mud.
There were times when I would have turned around but that as well, was not possible. The narrow path I travel is a two-way road. YUP, you know what that means? If I meet another vehicle, someone is going to have to back up. Let the larger vehicle prevail.
After all that driving, I arrived to discover absolutely nothing.
No fishermen.
No boats.
No action.
Just a line of wooden poles standing silently in the ocean.
Stick crucifixes sunk out in the clear water. There must have been about 8 or 9 of them but not a soul in sight. All this way, CRAP! Oh, well.
I parked off in the sand and grabbed my camera.
As I headed towards the water, out of nowhere, a fellow dashed onto the scene. He splashed his way in the water, scampered up a pole, and he perched his behind in the wood triangle positioned with twine. He dropped his rod and line into the water. Tourism has truly hit.
I snapped pictures like crazy. I wave my rupees in the air and he dismount as fast as he had gone up. We make our cash exchange, and both leave with a smile on our faces. (I believe at the time I travelled, the average monthly wage for workers was about $240.)
With the stilt fishermen officially checked off my bucket list, I climbed back into the SUV.
Unfortunately, there was one small problem.
The only way back was the same rice paddy road that had nearly given me a nervous breakdown getting there.
Funny enough, the drive back felt much shorter. Either I was getting used to Sri Lankan roads, or my survival instincts had finally kicked in.
Our next destination was Yala National Park, home to elephants, sloth bears, crocodiles, and one of the highest leopard densities in the world. Tomorrow's safari was already booked, and our driver would be collecting us at the not-so-friendly hour of 5:30 AM.
The drive to Yala was supposed to take about three hours.
Supposed to.
The expressway ended shortly after I joined it, and once again the road narrowed. As we passed through village after village, I began noticing a pattern. Every town seemed to have a police checkpoint.
And every checkpoint seemed interested in me.
A whistle would blow.
I would pull over.
A small crowd would gather.
Questions would be asked.
Smiles would appear.
Then I'd be sent on my way.
After the third stop, I figured out the problem.
I was driving a huge SUV.
I was a foreigner.
And I was a woman.
Apparently, that combination was worth investigating.
Thankfully, every encounter was friendly. I think curiosity played a much larger role than enforcement.
Once we left the busier towns behind, the drive became surprisingly relaxing. The scenery rolled by in a blur of temples, palm trees, roadside fruit stands, and villages where loudspeakers broadcast prayers across the countryside.
Sri Lanka certainly knows how to keep a road trip interesting.
By late afternoon we arrived at Laya Safari Resort, tucked away near Kirinda and only minutes from the Yala park gates.
You would never know a resort was hidden down this road.
And what a surprise it was.
Because we were travelling during shoulder season, the resort felt almost deserted. I think there was only one other group staying there. The upside? Incredible service.
Our deluxe sea-view room felt more like a small condo than a hotel room. Fresh fruit greeted us on arrival, and every window seemed to frame the Indian Ocean.
After settling in, we wandered down to the beach with a few staff members who eagerly shared stories about the area. The waves were beautiful but powerful. Swimming here was definitely not recommended unless being swept out to sea was part of your vacation plans.
Suddenly, the large infinity pool made perfect sense.
Since the hotel was so quiet, I wondered how they managed food service. We decided to drive a minute down the road to Jetwing Yala for dinner.
Excellent decision.
Fresh fish, seafood, and some of the best spice combinations I had tasted so far on the trip. Every bite reminded me why Sri Lankan cuisine deserves far more attention than it gets.
Back at the resort, I left the balcony doors open and listened to the crashing waves as I drifted off to sleep.
